PACIFLY

I still remember my first visit to Malaysia two and half years ago. I stayed there for three nights before I went on my first journey to the UK. It was already ten o’clock in the night when I arrived in central Kuala Lumpur. The hostel I booked should be two blocks away from the metro station but a local showed me a completely wrong direction. I walked around the nearby area alone, desperately wanting to know where I was. I once stepped into a very dark alley way and went passed a crowd of men whose night just began. I was terrified because I never travelled by myself and running into trouble the first night seemed to prove that my mom was right to try to stop me before we said good bye. Finally I located my position on the map and managed to find where I was and luckily a very friendly security guy in a bank read my map carefully and consulted two of his colleagues before showing me directions.  

Tip 1: For your information, they all agreed that the printed google map was confusing and not easy to read even for locals who know that area so well. 

During the stay, part of my money was stolen (I suspect it was the Indian guy who cleaned the hostel) and a girl from China told me how she lost her handbag in a shop owned by a dishonest Indian. I never like Kuala Lumpur and the Indians there. The first Indian I talked with was a taxi driver. He told me the bus services were not available when I finished visiting Batu Caves (sacred place for the Hindus) and was waiting for a bus on the main road. I guessed he was lying but couldn’t help worrying if he was right. It was a great relief when the bus showed up in ten minutes. I knew he needed to feed his family but I already said ‘No’ to his offer, he shouldn’t lie to me. For a period of time, I thought I will never ever come back to Malaysia again.  

It is true, ‘Never say never.’ When I told Yensu I looked for somewhere to visit on my way back from New Zealand, she strongly recommended Penang, so there I was in Malaysia, again. In Yensu’s memory, Penang represented friendliness, tasty food and nostalgic atmosphere. I agree with her, but in my version, hot weather should be on the list as well even in early May. 

I arrived in KL before dawn and was waiting for the flight bound for Penang after midday. A classic tropical heavy thunder rain hit the airport. I saw flashes of lightning splitting the sky ahead with sudden brightness and noises. The flight delayed for a while but not long enough to apply for compensation. I didn’t feel alright during the flight as if something were running inside my tummy. Not until we landed in Penang did I go to the toilet. Although it happened as I expected, I was so disappointed when my menstrual cycle officially said hello to me.

  
Wating for the flight to Penang. Heavy thunder rain hit LCCT airport right before departure.

I walked out of the airport, feeling dizzy and tired. The heat was unbearable and lack of sleep definitely helped to push me into a daze. I waited in line for bus 401E. One thing woke me up soon after I got on the bus. I told the bus driver ‘To Komtar’ and he gave me two tickets and asked for MYR5.4. At first I was quite happy because I had exactly right amount of change in my wallet. However, as soon as I noticed other passengers only paid MYR2.7 for the same route, anger captured me instantly. Although MYR2.7 wasn’t huge money, I kept wondering why the bus driver charged me twice! Well, it took me one day to figure it out while I was going to wash my clothes the next day. I suspect the driver referred ‘To Komtar’ as ‘Two, Komtar’.

Tip 2: MYR2.7 is a lesson to learn to never add ‘to’ in front of your destination to avoid the driver charging you for an apparition in his ears.

  
Arrived at George Town. The tallest building is called Komtar, which serves as commercial and government offices as well as retail.

My first impression of George Town: a very Chinese city.

I mainly stayed in George Town which was awarded UNESCO World Heritage status in 2008. Penang Island is on the northwest coast of Peninsular Malaysia by the Strait of Malacca. Locating in one of the highly urbanized and developed states of Malaysia, George Town is a popular tourist destination for its well-preserved historic buildings and abundant traces of diverse ethnicities: Chinese, Indians, Arabs, Malays and so on. According to the demographic data in 2010, Chinese accounts for 45.6% of its population and they are mostly the descendents of early immigrants from Hokkien area. I heard Min Nan dialect is widely used in Penang but sadly I could barely understand their accent even though I speak fluent Min Nan dialect in Taiwan.

Tip 3: Usefulness of languages for me: Mandarin > English >>>> Min Nan dialect.

Penang was hot most of the time during my stay. I didn’t wander around like I used to do nor grab local food anytime, everywhere like Yensu suggested. Frankly, the first few days of the menstrual cycle did her duty to spoil my appetite like usual and the heat just worsened it. I craved for cool beverages and air-conditioners most of the time. So the itineraries were like breakfast -> city sightseeing -> shopping malls -> dinner -> hostel. And yes, I lost 1.5 kilos in three days though they were all back on me soon after I came home.

Tip 4: Struggling with your weight? Calculate your cycle and go to somewhere hot. (female only, I am afraid)

I have to say I did enjoy the food there, partly because they were very oriental and partly for its price. Travelling in Penang is slightly cheaper than in Taiwan. I especially preferred buying food from street vendors. It is common that food stalls open around so-called ‘tea room’. You order proper meals from one stall and it would be brought into the tea room (that is if you want to eat there). Then as soon as you sit down, the staff will soon approach and take your order for beverages. I couldn’t live without watermelon and pineapple juice!

  
One of the tea rooms where I had my lunch. Various kinds of lunch (rice, noodles and so on) and beverages were served and shared the same dining space. 

I mainly looked for food at Kimberley Street (Lubuh Kimberley) where you can find very southest-styled Chinese cuisine. I don't normally take pictures for food. (I believe eating is the highest priority) Just list a few here.

 
Hokkien Noodles. Stir-fried noodles with thick soysauce, vegetables, sliced pork and pork liver. The first thing I had in Penang. Very tasty.

 
Char Kuey Teow. Stir-fried flat noodles with shrimps, bean sprouts, egg and some shellfish.

My favorite dish in Penang, Wonton Noodles. I love it.

Laksa, not my type. Spicy noodle soup from the Peranakan culture. There are many variants, Penang Laksa has it own distinguished features. But it was too spicy and fishy. I only had a bit. I think that's enough for culture experience.  

Fresh Pinapple juice.

This was the last picture I took in Penang. I ran out of battery. They called it 'Red Water'. I don't know what it was made of but I quite like it. Sweet, fresh and cool.